What to Eat in Oaxaca: A Foodie's Guide to the Best Dishes, Restaurants & Bars

What to Eat in Oaxaca: The Dishes You Can't Miss

• —Tlayudas — Oaxaca's giant, crispy open-faced tortilla, loaded with beans, quesillo, and meat.
• —Tamales — Masa steamed in banana leaves; try the mole-stuffed ones.
• —Enmoladas — Tortillas bathed in mole, the saucier cousin of enchiladas.
• —Huevos Divorciados — "Divorced eggs," one in red salsa, one in green.
• —Tacos — Self-explanatory, but the local fillings are the fun part.
• —Mole — Not food, but a sauce — and even that is an understatement. It could definitely be called a stand-alone thing, one of a kind, as it occupies all your attention and receptors.
• —Quesillo — The Oaxaca cheese they put everywhere. Once we ordered a salad with quesillo and, guess what, it was 20% salad and 80% cheeeeeseeee.
• —Chapulines — Toasted grasshoppers with lime and chili; dare yourself.
• —Pozole — A hearty hominy soup.

What to Drink in Oaxaca

• —Tejate — A frothy, pre-Hispanic corn-and-cacao drink.
• —Chocolate caliente — Oaxacan hot chocolate, a daily ritual here.
• —Mezcal — I gave it its own deep dive: how to taste mezcal in Oaxaca.
• —Sotol — A distilled spirit from the desert-spoon plant (not technically agave).
• —Pulque — Lightly fermented agave sap, mild and ancient.

If you're someone who, like me, loves to learn by doing (e.g. cooking) and would enjoy some fun company while doing it, here are a few of the most popular food tours and cooking classes in Oaxaca:

• —Oaxaca cooking class with a local chef
• —Oaxaca street food tour with 14 tastings
• —Private class of traditional Oaxacan cuisine

Best Restaurants in Oaxaca

Sorted from most affordable to biggest splurge.

1. 1.Cafe Los Cuiles ($) — My go-to for huevos divorciados and tortas. I also tried their corn helado on a whim — unusual, creamy, just sweet enough. Good courtyard to sit in with no rush.
2. 2.ONNO ($$) — We went twice. The croissants are genuinely good — not "good for Mexico" good, just good. The kind of breakfast spot that makes you reset your standards.
3. 3.Mejorana ($$) — Maybe ten tables, beautiful plating, excellent coffee. The kind of breakfast that makes you wish you weren't leaving the next day.
4. 4.Amá Terraza ($$) — We stumbled onto this one by accident and stayed three hours. The tuna tacos were better than expected, and the cocktails are strong. Good for a long slow lunch.
5. 5.Ancestral Cocina Tradicional ($$) — A leafy garden in Xochimilco, mostly locals, no tourist energy. The mole negro here was one of the best versions I had the entire trip.
6. 6.Las Quince Letras ($$) — A local friend put this on my list and she was right. No frills, just the real thing — order the mole negro over chicken and nothing else matters.
7. 7.Labo Fermento ($$) — A Michelin Guide spot that blends Korean and Oaxacan flavors through fermentation. The pickles and appetizers were unusual in a way I kept thinking about after. Go if you like experimental food.
8. 8.Casa Oaxaca ($$$) — The rooftop view over Santo Domingo at sunset is worth the price on its own. They grind the salsa in a molcajete at your table — sounds gimmicky, isn't.
9. 9.Origen ($$$) — Chef Rodolfo Castellanos knows what he's doing. The scallop taco became one of those dishes I was still thinking about weeks later. Book the tasting menu.
10. 10.Los Danzantes ($$$) — Great room, great drinks. If you're going to spend money on mezcal cocktails in Oaxaca, this is the place to do it.
11. 11.Tierra del Sol ($$$) — Book ahead and order the mole. Service is slow — not in an annoying way, more of a "they'll get there" situation. The city view makes up for it.
12. 12.Crudo ($$$) — Oaxacan-Japanese omakase at the chef's counter. Local ingredients treated like sushi — it works better than it sounds, and it sounds pretty good.
13. 13.NOIS ($$$) — The priciest night out on this list. Six or nine courses in a concrete brutalist room — moody, theatrical, the cocktails alone are worth going for.

Best Bars in Oaxaca

1. 1.Sabina Sabe ($$) — One of the best-known mezcal bars in the city. Good music, good crowd, the kind of place you end up staying much longer than you planned.
2. 2.El Espacio ($$) — A cool, less-touristy spot with a rotating mezcal selection and solid cocktails. Feels more like a local bar than a destination.
3. 3.Archivo Maguey ($$) — If you want to actually learn about agave spirits rather than just drink them, this is the place. The staff know what they're talking about.
4. 4.Florería Macarena Bar ($$) — A cocktail bar inside what looks like a flower shop. Unexpected, well-executed drinks — good for a first drink of the evening.
5. 5.Selva Oaxaca Cocktail Bar ($$$) — The most design-forward bar on this list. Creative cocktails, great atmosphere, goes late.
6. 6.Viajero Oaxaca Rooftop ($) — Cheap drinks, great rooftop, nomad crowd. Our Friday night default — there's always someone to talk to.
7. 7.La Mezcalotheca ($$) — one of my favorites; full write-up in my guide to tasting mezcal in Oaxaca

Bakeries, Coffee & Breakfast

1. 1.Massea ($$) — Excellent breakfast spot with really good atole. Try a flight of different flavors — it's one of the better uses of 30 minutes in the morning.
2. 2.Marito & Moglie ($$) — Italian-run bakery with proper pastries and strong coffee. The kind of place you walk past, smell it, and can't keep walking.
3. 3.Terno ($) — Specialty coffee done right. Smaller, quieter than the other cafes on this list — go here when you need to actually focus.
4. 4.Kiyo Café ($$) — Japanese-influenced cafe with matcha drinks and careful coffee prep. Drinks come out beautiful.
5. 5.Cafebre ($$) — Good breakfast and fast enough Wi-Fi to get work done. One of the more reliably laptop-friendly spots in the centro.
6. 6.Nono Café ($) — Tiny, neighborhood feel, good coffee. Not a place to set up for three hours, but great for a quick stop.
7. 7.Sagrado Filemón ($$) — Popular brunch spot with a full menu — eggs, chilaquiles, pan dulce. Gets busy on weekends so go early.
8. 8.Jazz Coffee ($$) — Relaxed and central with decent coffee and a food menu. Good fallback when everything else is full.

Best Food Stalls & Taquerías

We all know that, in this part of the world, the messier and more unattractive the place looks, the better it is! Here are my favorite fast-food stops for an excellent finger-licking experience (warning: high cal):

1. 1.Memelas Doña Vale ($) — The memelas here are thick, freshly made, and loaded. One of those street stalls that locals actually eat at — not just tourists looking for something authentic.
2. 2.Norteñito Taquería ($) — Straightforward northern-style tacos done well. Good meat, good salsa, no fuss. Perfect late-night stop.
3. 3.Tacos Chemita ($) — Buzzy late-night taquería; go for the pastor con queso and the suadero.
4. 4.Tacos del Carmen ($) — Netflix-famous street stall with handmade tortillas, chorizo, quesillo, and beans grilled over charcoal. Expect a line.
5. 5.Lechoncito de Oro ($) — Late-night lechón (suckling pork) tacos topped with crispy chicharrón; sets up around 8pm on Calle de los Libres.
6. 6.Tacos de Cazuela Tía Chave ($) — A beloved little cazuela-taco stand run by a team of lovely señoras. The quesillo y chorizo is the move. Cash only.

Getting Around Oaxaca

When I was in Oaxaca, I stayed quite central — a conscious, careful choice. I wanted the option to walk everywhere and to avoid renting a car, since driving here is a bit more involved than in, say, Mexico City. Uber is restricted, so the main way to get around is by street taxi (the bright yellow cabs). The rate is taxímetro-based: expect roughly 40–65 pesos (about $2–3.50 USD) for a ride within the center, and bring cash, since most don't take cards. DiDi is a comparable app alternative.

Where to Stay in Oaxaca

Looking for where to stay in Oaxaca? Here are my hand-picked favorites by budget:

Hotel Cazomalli

Jalatlaco · $

Budget

Charming family-run gem tucked into the cobblestone streets of Jalatlaco.

Check availability

Hotel Con Corazón

Centro · $$

Mid-range

Safe, feel-good stay with a standout breakfast and a social vibe.

Check availability

Sauvé Casa Boutique

Centro · $$

Mid-range

Serene, central, walk-everywhere boutique — great base for exploring on foot.

Check availability

Casa Acueducto

Xochimilco · $$$

Luxury

Boutique splurge with a rooftop jacuzzi in the quiet, artsy Xochimilco neighborhood.

Check availability

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