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Whitewashed village of Cadaqués on the Costa Brava, Spain

Spain | Costa Brava

8 Best Things to Do in Cadaqués, Spain: Travel Guide & Where to Stay

Cadaqués was one of those places I almost skipped — too far, too inconvenient, not enough time. I'm glad I didn't. It's a whitewashed fishing village on the Costa Brava, about three hours from Barcelona by bus, and it feels like it belongs to a different era. Dalí lived here for decades, and you can feel why — the light is strange, the bay is beautiful, and the town is small enough that you actually slow down. Here's what to do, where to eat, and where to stay.

This July I was staying in Barcelona for a couple of weeks, which can get a little too hot and a bit crowded with tourists coming from around the world to see Gaudí's masterpieces or make their escape to the Costa Brava beaches. However, even in Barcelona, there are ways to explore a little off-grid and stay in places that help you see the city from a different perspective, through the eyes of a local — and I wrote a short guide on that.

Cadaqués bay view
Whitewashed streets of Cadaqués

July is not a bad time to visit Costa Brava — it's slightly cooler than cities further south, and just being by the sea is refreshing. I was looking forward to exploring more hidden gems along the Costa Brava and decided to head to Cadaqués, which Condé Nast Traveller called an arty fishing village that's Spain's best-kept secret.

Cadaqués genuinely feels like you've slipped through the cracks of time into a secluded, sun-drenched sanctuary with no connection to the modern world. Cut off from the rest of Spain by the Pení mountains, it has preserved a rare, authentic soul that feels entirely different from the rest of the bustling Costa Brava. The last hour on the bus takes you through winding, serpentine mountain roads (which could be a little rough if you struggle with car sickness), but once you arrive, you completely feel like you've reached an isolated pocket the rest of the world doesn't know about. The more I travel, the more I crave places exactly like this. The blinding white-washed houses against deep-blue sea waters are hard for your eyes to get used to, and hard to believe are real — it feels more like a living canvas than an actual city with real inhabitants. But unlike many places I've been that felt this way — almost museum-like, built for tourists — Cadaqués absolutely doesn't feel that way. Strolling its streets, I quickly noticed how livable it is: locals drying their laundry in the sun, people walking their dogs through narrow, century-old alleys, señoras tending their blooming gardens. Cadaqués in summer is deep in blooming trees, pink and red flowers of every kind, and bright blue paint framing every building.

Cadaqués whitewashed village

I stayed at Hotel Blaumar, a charming blue-and-white property just outside the old town — more on that in the Where to Stay section below.


Top Things to Do in Cadaqués, Costa Brava

1. Visit the Salvador Dalí House-Museum in Portlligat

The Salvador Dalí House-Museum in Portlligat is a labyrinthine complex built out of several converted fisherman's huts where the surrealist artist lived and worked from 1930 to 1982. You can explore Dalí's private studio and the house where he lived, see the window frames that inspired his bay landscapes, and wander through the surrealist olive grove gardens featuring his iconic pink lips-shaped couch.

Practical tip

Book tickets in advance — limited visitor groups are let in every 10 minutes, which honestly makes the whole experience much better. Secure your time slot directly on the official Fundació Gala-Salvador Dalí ticket portal.

One of the things that inspired me to go to Cadaqués was my long-time love for Salvador Dalí, which started when I came across a biography of him at 18. I remember thinking, after reading just a few pages, “this man is crazy… but he's so interesting.” Salvador Dalí is definitely someone you'd call an individual — a genius who relentlessly worked to turn his obsessions and psychological struggles into art.

2. Hike the Wild Coastline of Cap de Creus Natural Park

This trail plunges into a raw, alien landscape where the Pyrenees Mountains abruptly crash straight into the Mediterranean Sea. The wind-sculpted terrain features bizarre, jagged black slate and orange limestone formations that famously inspired Salvador Dalí's surrealist paintings, making it feel like walking across the surface of another planet. You'll reach the easternmost point of the Iberian Peninsula, with dramatic 360-degree views from atop sheer, plunging sea cliffs, plus access to secret, emerald-water coves (calas) that are entirely inaccessible by car.

Trail details

  • Distance: 8.2–8.8 miles (13–14 km) round-trip
  • Moving time: 3.5–4.5 hours
  • Start: Portlligat trailhead (near Dalí's house) or the Cap de Creus lighthouse

I did parts of this trail at sunrise, before the July heat kicked in, and I absolutely loved it — I've never really seen terrain like this. It's wild, featuring bizarre, jagged black slate and orange limestone formations that make you appreciate why Salvador Dalí was so inspired by them.

Important warnings

This is a completely sun-exposed trail, with the stones absorbing heat and turning it into an oven. The most common mistake is underestimating the Mediterranean sun and running out of water — there's nowhere to refill along the way. Two liters per person is the minimum, and UV protection plus a wide-brim hat are not optional. Avoid the peak midday heat between 12:00 PM and 4:00 PM.

3. Take a Boat Tour to Snorkel Near Cap de Creus and Visit Sea Caves

I arrived in Cadaqués in the afternoon, and it was too hot to do anything besides hide in the hotel room or get in the sea. Whenever there's a great opportunity to get on a boat and see some beautiful vistas, I don't usually think too long. Here, just moments from the easternmost point of Spain, is a landscape best described as a surreal, windswept, lunar terrain where the Pyrenees plunge straight into the Mediterranean Sea. I was told that this peninsula is deeply indented with calas (narrow, steep-sided bays) hidden between towering cliffs, which is fantastic to see from the water. I didn't hesitate to book a small-group boat tour around the Cap de Creus peninsula, not far from the French border.

Boat tour Cap de Creus Cadaqués
Sea caves boat tour Cadaqués

We sailed past mysterious sea chasms like the Cave of Hell (Cova de l'Infern) and Tamariu Cave, alongside untouched, turquoise-water coves like Cala Culip and Cala Jugadora — the latter named for fishermen who used to compete over who could catch the biggest, rarest fish there.

Sea coves from the boat near Cap de Creus

It's always better with a small group — it's not crowded, there's enough space on the boat for everyone, and you can also work out your own route or pace with the captain. We had two stops to swim and snorkel with the goggles provided by the boat, though the visibility was fantastic even without them — you could see straight down to the seafloor and watch gigantic fish swim past, along with sea urchins and starfish hiding between the rocks.

We visited two caves, and one of my favorite spots was the Cave of Hell (Cova de l'Infern), where sunlight filtering through an opening in the top of the cave paints its walls a bright orange. On our return journey, we cruised past some of the most expensive properties on the peninsula.

Cave of Hell Cova de l'Infern from the boat

4. Explore Santa Maria Church and the Historic Old Town

The church sits at the highest elevation of the historic old town (Casco Antiguo). On the way to the church, you pass through narrow streets with white-washed houses and steep, hilly pathways constructed with rastell (or es rastell) — a traditional and ingenious style of paving unique to the old town of Cadaqués, made from narrow slate stones harvested directly from the surrounding Cap de Creus mountains. I strongly recommend sturdy shoes with good grip, or at least avoiding heels — these streets are a delight to walk on for the tactile experience, feeling the texture underfoot and hearing a distinct, hollow sound, but they can also be a little slippery and unstable.

Santa Maria houses one of the most spectacular Baroque altarpieces in Catalonia — well worth the climb.

5. Walk the Coastal Path (Camí de Ronda) to Cala Nans Lighthouse

The walk along the Camí de Ronda from the center of Cadaqués to the Cala Nans Lighthouse (Far de Cala Nans) is a 4.4–5-mile (7–8 km) round-trip hike that typically takes 2 to 2.5 hours to complete. The name Cala Nans comes from the nanses — traditional artisanal fishing traps — that were once set here. The trail leads all the way to this restored historic lighthouse, perched right at the top of the cliff. This spot is unreachable any other way than on foot — no car can drive here, as the natural area is protected and restricted. You won't find the whimsical, wind-formed rock structures of Cap de Creus here, but this is a great alternative if you're short on time and can't complete the longer Cap de Creus hike. You won't be disappointed with the views, and the area feels utterly peaceful, quiet, and untouched.

6. Have a Sit-Down Dinner with Authentic Catalan Cuisine

I had only one night to make my dinner plans, and after a careful and strategic scroll through every restaurant in Cadaqués, I decided to head to Oli Bar.

Oli Bar ($$$)

Oli Bar is tucked into a nook on one of the narrow streets, completely overgrown with flower-filled bushes, and set inside an 18th-century former olive mill that still has its original millstone.

Address: Carrer d'en Guillem de Bruguera, 10, 17488 Cadaqués
Website: olibarcadaques.com

Oli Bar exterior Cadaqués
Oli Bar interior

The moment you walk in, you face a central bar wrapped around an open kitchen, where chefs cook right in front of you under dim lighting that creates a romantic, laid-back atmosphere. It's perfect to sit right at the bar if you're visiting alone, as I did, or with a friend or partner. The tables and stools, on the other end, are tightly packed, making it a bit uncomfortable and noisy.

Oli Bar food Cadaqués
Oli Bar dish
Oli Bar cocktail

The first thing that catches your eye — and is hard to ignore — is a stack of house-made focaccia. I ordered it immediately and it arrived, as it should, with homemade butter. The team recommended the Crudo Picante — a cured sea bass with a spicy shrimp-head sauce (suc de les capgrosses in Catalan). My second plate was spinach with a tuna-based sauce and pine nuts — a great fresh vegetable add-on, and the sauce made it rich, umami, and delicious. For a drink, their hit cocktail is Aperol with local Catalan herbs — a twist on the classic Italian Spritz. The wine I was recommended was fruity but fresh and crisp — exactly what I wanted.

Casa Anita ($$$)

A Cadaqués institution since 1960, this tiny, no-frills restaurant seats guests at shared tables under walls covered in old photos and art. There's no printed menu — you eat whatever the kitchen has pulled in that day, from grilled sardines and prawns to homemade desserts. It's been a favorite of everyone from Salvador Dalí to Kirk Douglas.

Address: Carrer Miquel Rosset, 16, 17488 Cadaqués
Instagram: @casaanitacdq

Compartir ($$$)

Opened in 2012 by three former El Bulli chefs (Mateu Casañas, Oriol Castro, and Eduard Xatruch), Compartir serves modern Mediterranean dishes designed for the table to share — rice dishes, oysters, and seasonal plates — inside a restored 18th-century building with a large courtyard terrace. It holds a Michelin selection.

Address: Riera de Sant Vicenç, s/n, 17488 Cadaqués
Website: compartircadaques.com

7. Browse the Cadaqués Antiques and Vintage Market

Cadaqués holds an antiques and vintage market right along the water on the Passeig Marítim, on the third and fourth Sunday of each month — around 20 stalls of antique furniture, vintage clothing, and one-of-a-kind curiosities. If you're around on a Monday instead, the town's regular weekly market takes over Sa Riera from 8:00 AM to 2:00 PM with fresh produce, crafts, and clothing.

8. Order a Drink at a Bar with Bay Views

For a sundowner or a lazy afternoon drink, head to Bar Set ($) on Passeig del Mar — a Cadaqués classic known for its terrace right over the water and views across the whole bay. It's been a hangout for artists and locals since Marcel Duchamp used to play chess there. Order a coffee, a sangria, or a glass of cava and settle in for some people-watching.


Where to Stay in Cadaqués: Best Hotels & Neighborhoods

Waterfront & Sea View Hotels

Best area: Promenade / Bayfront

Boutique Hotels in Cadaqués Old Town

Best area: Pedestrian Historic Center

Quiet Escapes & Scenic Hideaways

If you'd prefer something tucked a little further away from the tourist concentration, with a bigger property or more spacious suites, room to lounge by a pool, and easier parking, this is the area to stay. That was my choice, since I was mainly planning to explore the Dalí house and start an early-morning hike to Cap de Creus — and it worked out great with my plan.

Area: Port Lligat / Cap de Creus boundary

Hotel Blaumar pool
Hotel Blaumar terrace

How to Get to Cadaqués

From Barcelona

Direct buses depart from Barcelona's Estació d'Autobusos Nord. The trip takes about 2 hours and 45 minutes, running several times a day year-round, with increased frequency in summer.

From Girona

Buses depart from the main Girona Bus Station (Estació d'Autobusos, right next to the train station). The ride takes about 1 hour and 45 minutes, but schedules can be limited — often just once a day on weekdays, and rarely on weekends.

Booking your bus

The most convenient app for checking all buses and trains is Omio — compare routes and book directly in the app. Or book through the transport company's website, Moventis. Either way, get your ticket in advance and just show the QR code to the driver to board.

Frequently Asked Questions About Visiting Cadaqués

Two to three days is a good amount of time — enough for the Dalí House-Museum, a Cap de Creus hike, a boat tour, and a proper dinner without rushing. It also works well as a one-night stop on a longer Costa Brava trip.
Yes — Cadaqués is one of the few Costa Brava towns that still feels authentic rather than built for tourists, thanks to its isolated location behind the Pení mountains. Between the Dalí connection, the Cap de Creus hikes, and the seafood, it earns its reputation as a hidden gem.
Direct buses run from Barcelona's Estació d'Autobusos Nord (about 2 hours 45 minutes) and from Girona's bus station (about 1 hour 45 minutes). Omio is the easiest way to compare schedules, or you can book directly through Moventis.
Technically yes, but it's a long day — around 5.5 hours round-trip on the bus alone. It's more comfortable as an overnight or multi-day stop, especially if you want time for a hike or boat tour.
It's on the pricier side for the Costa Brava, especially for dinner and accommodation in high season, since it's a small town with limited capacity and international name recognition through Dalí. Booking ahead and traveling outside July–August helps.
Cadaqués is best known as Salvador Dalí's home for over 50 years, along with its whitewashed old town, the wind-carved landscape of Cap de Creus Natural Park, and its history as an artists' colony.
Cadaqués is generally considered a safe, low-key town to explore on your own, but as with anywhere, use normal precautions at night and around the more remote parts of the Cap de Creus trail.
Late spring (May–June) and early fall (September) offer warm weather without the peak-July heat and crowds. July and August are the liveliest but also the hottest and most expensive months to visit. That said, I traveled in July on short notice and it wasn't hard to get a hotel booking or a dinner table — even in peak season it felt comfortable.