O Valentim

The traditional fish restaurant in Matosinhos — Rua Roberto Ivens, the seafood strip across from the fishing port. You pick your fish from the iced display at the front, they grill it whole, you pair it with açorda de coentros (cilantro-bread-and-egg porridge — sounds odd, is excellent). No frills, no fusion, just Portuguese coastal cooking the way it's been done for fifty years. A 25-minute metro ride from central Porto on Linha A blue line, get off at Matosinhos Sul.